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         HOW TO GO BEYOND THE INFORMATION IN TEXT BOOKS\n\n       AND MANUFACTURES INSTRUCTIONS TO ACHIEVE A  \n\n       PERMANENT CURL ON ASIAN, look thumb HISPANIC & INDIAN HAIR    \n\n \n\n                                 By Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau\n\n \n\nAsian, Hispanic, Indian and any other entity with natural straight course hair can benefit from certain products that were designed for the Afro market.  For example, the curly permanent (Cold Wave) perm.   This system will work better using a curly perm product designed for the Afro market.  WHY?  Because in the system (or Kit) is a product called the rearranger.  This is the first step in the system.  The purpose of the rearranger is to pre-soften the hair, then comb the product through the hair in the same manner as a relaxer cream for the same reason (to relax the access curl “or kinks”) from the hair in order to allow the hair to be rodded with less effort and resistance.  The rearranger is in a cream or gel form and contains the same active ingredient that is in a cold wave solution (Ammonium Thioglycolic Acid).  The rearranger will only relax out no more then 50% of the natural curl because the PH is only 8 1/2 and dropping to neutral in less then 10 minutes.  Whereby most relaxer product contain Sodium Hydroxide with a stable PH of 12 to 14 and will relax the hair “bone Straight”. \n\n \n\nThe reason that people with straight course hair can best achieve a permanent curl with a product described above, is because this type hair has a cuticle that is twice as thick then other cultures with straight hair.  For example, Afro hair has twice as many over-lapping layers of cuticle scales (12 to 14) then Caucasians with 5 to 7.  Straight course hair has the same amount as Caucasians, but is twice as thick.  So in order to soften the cuticle to form the curl on the rod, the same rearranger product must be used, only in a different way and for a different reason.  Instead of being used to rearrange or straighten the hair, it is used to pre-soften it so that the curl will form on the rod before the cold wave solution becomes ineffective due to the decreasing PH.\n\n \n\nMany salons that cater to people with straight course hair will not attempt to do a permanent curl on this type hair because when following the directions that accompany the product, a curl will not form, or the curl will be weak.   Straight course hair and Afro hair require up to 30 minutes more to process with the “thio” products, then do Caucasian hair that will process in 12 to 14 minutes.  So when doing a permanent curl on straight course hair, follow the directions for Afro hair only let the rearranger (that is now being used as a (pre-softener) be applied to all of the hair), then place a plastic processing cap and wrap a warm towel around the head for about 10 minutes, remove towel and plastic cap, rinse with warm water, then proceed with the next step.  This type hair should be wrapped on the rods with slight tension and “on base” instead of off base with no tension as described in the textbooks for Caucasian hair.  The reason being, that straight course hair has a tendency to unwrap from the rod, so this will help to prevent this.  Afro hair is wrapped the same way, but for a different reason.  Afro hair has the ability to stretch up to twice as much as any straight hair, therefore wrapping in this manor will help straighten as well as form the curl.  Even though the hair has been rearranged, 40% to 60% of the natural curl remains.\n\n \n\nSo armed with the preceding information, it is possible and plausible to achieve a permanent curl of natural straight course hair. Until now, most Asian and Hispanic Cosmetologist discouraged the permanent curl for people of their own culture, because when following the instructions that come with the product and the information in the textbooks (that relate to Caucasian hair only) little or no curl will form.  Hopefully, this article will open new doors of opportunity for professionals and their clientele in this regard.

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