How to Promote and Stimulate Natural Hair Growth

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How to Promote and Stimulate Natural Hair Growth

\n\n\nIt has not been proven that any product applied externally to the hair or scalp can promote, capsule stimulate or accelerate natural hair growth. Most people who complain of little or no hair growth are blaming it on the wrong person.  They think the problem is lack of natural growth from the scalp, patient when in reality; the problem is the hair is breaking off from the end for a variety of reasons. If hair growth stops, then baldness begins, and yet you have people complaining their hair has not grown at the all over a period of years.  If the person has hair then it is growing. Once hair stops growing, it is eliminated by way of attrition. In other words, as every hair shaft dies out due to the normal life span of the hair shaft (5 to 7 years), then it will not be replaced by another. Therefore, permanent baldness becomes apparent.\n\nThe truth of the matter is hair grows at the same exact rate as the fingernails. And just as your fingernail breaks due to normal day-to-day activity and maintains only a certain length, the hair shaft does the same thing due to misuse of combing, brushing, perms, tints, relaxers, pressing and hot curling.  They come off a little at a time at the same rate or more from the ends as the hair grows from the scalp.  Therefore, natural hair growth goes unnoticed.  Manufacturers who identify their products with the word “GRO” are using a non-existent word, thus sending you a subliminal message as to its ability to grow hair. However, in all fairness these products will not harm the hair and may have some benefits but hair growth is not one of them.\n\nThe only way that a product can benefit, and stimulate hair growth is if it is consumed orally and gotten into the blood stream as a vitamin. Certain vitamins that can benefit healthy hair are available and so labeled. The root of the hair (papilla) dips into the blood stream and picks up the nutrients and supplies them though the cortex and medulla to enhance healthy hair. Hair health is promoted from within the hair shaft. Products that are applied to the outer surface of the hair are for the most part to enhance the appearance of the hair and to repair the outer surface (cuticle) if it contains Keratin, Amino Acid or Poly PepTide Proteins.\n\nThere is no product you can purchase that has been approved by the Food and Drug Administration that can cause, promote, or accelerate natural hair growth.  So, rather than buy products that will reconstruct and maintain the existing hair. Then and only then, will natural hair growth become noticeable and apparent.  However, it is important to remember that any treatment designed to promote longer hair must start with a hair cut, because you must first eliminate the split, damaged and frizzy ends, otherwise they will continue to split down the entire hair shaft, then break off somewhere along the way. Most people who complain of a lack of hair growth will not allow it to be cut because they think it is not growing.\n\nThe truth of the matter is that it does not appear to grow simply because they will not allow it to be cut. Surprisingly, if you submit to the first initial cut, then continue to clip the ends every 4-6 weeks, you will notice considerably longer hair in a very short period of time.

Scientifically, How Do Heat Protecting Serums, Lotions, and Sprays Guard Hair Against Heat Damage

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There are several kind of heat used in hair care.  They are: hot water, click

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heat caps, viagra canada heat lamps, hot air and hot irons. All of which have the ability

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to damage hair if not used correctly.  However, the source that can cause

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the most harm are curling irons and pressing comps because the heat

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may not be controlled manually, which can result in the device being too

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hot for the hair to withstand. In order to help protect against this, some

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type of protective product should be employed such as a Leave in

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Conditioner.  Do not use gels because they contain to much water that

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can turn to steam and burn the scalp.  Do not use aerosol sprays,

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because the propellant use to eject the product is flammable and can

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cause problems when used with a curling iron.

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The reason that some types of protectants should be used is because the

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heat can cause serious harm if there is not a lubricant between the hair

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and the iron.

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To better understand this, lets look at how a curling iron work’s to form

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a temporary curl on the hair.  The outer layer of the hair shaft is called a

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cuticle.  The cuticle, consist of the same element as the finger nails but

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much thinner.  They overlap like scales on a fish. (that is why they are

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referred to as Cuticle Scales).   These cuticles protect the inner areas of

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the hair from outside dangers.  When a curling iron is used to put a curl

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in hair, the heat softens the cuticle, then bends the cuticle in the shape of

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the iron to form a temporary curl that only last for a short time due to

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gravitational affects.   The protectants, not only cushions the heat but

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also helps to maintain the curl longer.  Do not do this any more than 3

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times a week, because if you heat curl every day or even twice a day,

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this will do serious harm to the cuticle, because each time that you hot

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curl the hair, some cuticle is lost.  It takes at least 2 days for it to recover

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and rebuild much the same way that a sore heals on the skin. You can

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maintain the curls by using smooth plastics rollers at night.

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On textured hair such as Afro centric or (kinky) hair, the curling iron

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may serve a dual purpose. Because it will be used to both straighten and

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curl.  On this type of hair, a protectant that has more of a light

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petrolatum base is recommended, because it will also have a dual

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purpose, as a protectant and pressing agent to smooth down the cuticle

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before the curl is formed.  The end results are a tight natural curl or

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(kink) being replaced with a smooth controlled curl.  Hence, is how it

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works: After applying the product to each stand as you go, place the

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curling iron close to the scalp with hair placed between the pin and shell

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of the iron, then slide the iron down to the ends.  You may want to this

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more than once depending on the resistance of the hair.  Then form the

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curl around the iron in the usual way.

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Heat is an important element in cosmetology.  As such, must be

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respected and regulated to conform to the type and condition of the

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hair. Relaxed and color treated heated hair will require less heat than

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virgin hair.

\nDr. Edward Tony Lloneau

THE SURPRISING TOOLS FOR SURVIVAL OF THE BLACK COSMETOLOGIST by Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

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Sometimes it is necessary to reach back for something old in order to come up with something new. Sometimes you must resurrect tools and know-how from the past and combine that with modern day know-how to come up with a workable method hair design that is yours and yours alone, buy viagra  as a Black Cosmetologist.  Using a combination of past and present knowledge to your best advantage is the key to prosperity that will put wasted and so-called downtime to work for you. Surprising as it may seem, cheap those tools are the PRESSING COMB and the MARCEL CURLING IRON of the type that use direct thermo heat from (electric heaters). Non-black cosmetologists have not mastered the use of the stove heated Marcel Curling Iron.  The electric Irons do not get as hot as the stove heated irons and cannot be as effective on virgin Afro hair. The difference between Marcel iron and an ordinary curling iron is that the Marcel iron has two revolving handles of equal size. This iron is manipulated by using a combination of wrist and fingers working together to keep the iron constantly in motion, as long as it is in the hair, to prevent the hot iron from burning the hair.  Electric curling irons can only be manipulated by using the thumb when the release comes back around and does not allow as much freedom of movement and control as the stove heated Marcel iron, mainly because there is no cord to restrict movement. The pressing and curling of so-called kinky hair was basically the only way to get this type of straight and smooth hair until the middle 1950’s when chemical relaxers were introduced into the professional market. Soon, black beauticians all over the country were switching many of their customers from pressing to the chemical-relaxing method. This method was popular among beauticians because there was less physical effort, and the price received for this service was considerably more than from the press and curl. The patron was willing to pay more because the relaxer would last six weeks or more, and the press only lasted no longer than two weeks, or would revert immediately if gotten wet.  The going price for a press and curl in the 50’s was about $5.00.  The price a relaxer and style was from $18.00 to $24.00.  From then until now, relaxers have grown in popularity with the Black Cosmetologist, and presently represent about 80 percent of the hair restructuring services in Black Salons.\n\nTHE FOLLOWING FACTS MAY BE SURPRISING TO SOME AND SHOCKING TO OTHERS.\n\n Chemical relaxers and permanent curling serve only about 40 percent of the total hair restructuring market.  Thirty percent of that market is still using the press and curl method.  I do not intend to confuse you with conflicting statements because in the last paragraph I stated that 80 percent of all hair restructuring performed in black beauty salons are relaxers and permanent curls. That statement is true; however, all hair rearranging is not done in beauty salons.  The fact is, most people who prefer to have their own or their children’s hair pressed do not go to the salons for this service, because many salons no longer offer this service or they do not advertise it..  Manufactures of hair care products (both Black and White) are partly responsible for this trend, because just about all major manufacturers and small localized manufacturing firms all over the country, are producing chemical (Sodium Hydroxide and no lye) relaxers and permanent products.  Almost all of these manufactures are directing their efforts at those markets and leaving the rest of the hair rearranging market (pressing) in an ignored, neglected state.  Thirty percent of that market is left to achieve their hair straightening process by old fashioned, antiquated methods that have not been updated since the inception of the pressing comb. Because there is a large number of people who use the pressing comb Method of straightening hair, there is potential growth in this area for the Black Cosmetologist.  This growth is especially important for the new Black cosmetologist fresh out of beauty school.  When a new Black cosmetologist graduates from beauty schools and sets up shop looking for customers, she or he is at a great disadvantage if she/he does not know how to use the pressing comb and Marcel iron.  Especially if the majority of her/his planned clientele is Black.  This is because new cosmetologists will only be qualified to work on only about 70% of their potential customers.  At this point, I would like to pay tribute to the Black-owned beauty schools in this country, because most of them do offer and teach pressing and curling to those students who wish to learn this skill.  What is so remarkable about this is that these schools are not required to teach this method because most State Boards of Cosmetology do not require the student to know the practical application of pressing and curling.  Generally Black schools offer this basic knowledge because they know this could make the difference between success and failure for a new black cosmetologist trying to build a clientele and because many of the school patrons request this service. There are a few White-owned beauty schools with a majority of Black students that do teach pressing and curling using Black instructors.  But, for the most part, White owned schools of cosmetology do not offer this curriculum, and therefore, many Black students who graduate from such schools come out unequipped to service professionally among their own kind.  These students often wind up working as a shampoo or utility person in someone else’s salon, or they drop out of the profession altogether.  When a new Black cosmetologist who does not know how to press and curl sets up shop in an area where most of her/his customers will be Black, she or he starts out as a double minority.  First, because she/he is Black and second because she/he can only perform services for 70 percent of Black people looking for professional beauty services.  In other words, that cosmetologist will be a minority within a minority. 1/3 of the students in cosmetology school are Black in America, but many of there concerns are ignored.

FACTS ABOUT PRESSING AND CURLING $$$ HIDDEN PROFITS IN PRESS & CURL SERVICE

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Many cosmetologists claim they do not like to press and curl because of the small amount of profit involved… Actually, discount viagra  there is as much profit or more in pressing and curling as there is in most other services.  Here is the proof. The average cold wave permanent on black clientele takes about two and a half hours from start to finish.  The average price received is about $75.00.  Hair relaxing takes about one and a half hours to complete at an average price of about $65.00. Considering that most relaxers are so called retouch up’s at a lower price. Complete shampoos, viagra sale  press, curl and style takes from forty-five minutes to one hour.  The average price received for this service is $35.00 to $45.00.  When you consider the fact you can do 2 to 3 complete press and curls in the same time it takes to do one permanent curl; or one and a half press and curls in the time it takes to do a relaxer treatment, you will realize that based on time per service, your profit margin is substantially more.  Or to put it another way, “How many jobs are there that pay between $35.00 and $45.00 per hour?”  Also, the press & curls patron will return on the average of every two weeks, while relaxer and curl patrons stay away from 6 weeks to 3 months.  So in the long term you can realize up to six times more income from the press & curl customer.  The above figures are only proposals, you may charge less or more for your services but the relevance still applies.\n\nThirty percent of Afro females avail themselves to pressing and curling but only 10% of that business is being performed in salons were it belongs.  A large part of this lost clientele is in part the cosmetologists fault, because they do not indicate that this service is offered.  For many years the cosmetologist depended on the manufactures of products to supply posters and signs to indicate what services were offered.  But there has not been a sign or poster printed in the last 25 or more years that show “Press & Curl”, in order to reclaim this lost business you must advertise this service by placing a large sign in the window of your salon proclaiming that you do Press & Curl.  You will be surprised how many people pass by your salon everyday who would like to have this service performed, but there is no indication in your window that you do. It has been proven that if you advertise and promote this service your clientele will grow by 20% within 6 months. \n\nYOU MUST BE AWARE OF THIS FACT! That the Press & Curl is one element of professional Cosmetology that the Black cosmetologist own and control.  Other cultures can do relaxers and curly perms on Afro hair as well as any one.  But Press & Curl service is almost non existent to other cultures, SO take advantage of this fact and use it to increase your business, and all it takes is to let your potential new patrons know that you can do this service.\n\n \n\n Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau\n\n (310) 283-7118\n\n liquidgoldbondng@aol.com

HAS THE KOREAN BEAUTY SUPPLY INDUSTRY REACHED ITS SUMMIT?

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The Korean Beauty Supply Industry is very strong; in fact the largest beauty supply network in this country is Korean.  Jenny’s Beauty Supply with 8 distribution warehoused in 8 major cities is a strong example.  Sally’s Beauty Supply is the largest beauty supply chain of stores in America, discount with over 2,300 stores in the U.S.  But collectively the Koreans have over three times that many.  Most are bigger and stock a larger variety of products, including local and regional products.  However, the Korean stores for the most part are located in mostly Afro American communities.  The reason for this is because the main focus of sales are for commercial hair, ie… wigs, hair for weaves, braids, extensions and all forms of hair augmentations.   Afro American woman are the major consumers of these items.  The Koreans control the major source of import of this hair through there home land of Korea.  Afro Americans are only 12% of the country’s population, but are consumers of over 33% of hair care products in America.  These facts make for good business sense for the Korean Beauty Supply Stores to be located in the Afro communities. One little known interesting fact is, Koreans control 60% of the beauty supply industry in America, but they are only 3% of the population.\n\nWith the preceding in mine, this leads us to the reason for this article.  When the Korean’s first came to this country in groups after the Korean War and the North Korean conflict in the late 1960s, they discovered the demographics of commercial hair and the correlation of hair and hair care products as it related to the Afro consumer, and they opened stores in the predominately Afro communities to service that demographic.  At first the community was apprehensive and untrusting of the Koreans whom they felt had infiltrated there turf.  Also most of the Koreans could not speak English, so communication was difficult.  But because the Korean stores had what the populist wanted and needed without having to go outside of the area and at competitive prices the blending of the two cultures over time became compatible.\n\nThe first generations of Koreans over came the many barriers of doing business in a some what hostel environment dating back to the late 60’s and early 70’s.  The second generation for the most part assimilated into the family business and the language barrier became less of a concern in the late 80’s and mid 90’s.  But when the third generation came on the scene, many of them had other goals and ambitions that did not include the Beauty Supply Business.  This was the beginning of the slow down of the Korean dominated Beauty Supply Business.  Many of this generation went to Colleges and Universities and came out with skills and diplomas that related to high Tec Industries and professional careers.  In fact, Asians are the second largest minority enrolled in institutes of higher learning in America.\n\nAnother factor that leads to the slow down of the Korean Beauty Supply business is OVER SATURATION years ago the Koreans were careful not to compete against each other in the same vicinity, but now they are competing within a close proximity of each other.  The Korean Beauty Supply market is over saturated in the Afro community especially in large metropolitan areas.\n\nAnother factor that leads to the slow down of the business is that when the Koreans first set up shop in the Afro communities the community was over 90% black.  But now many areas are less than 50% black.  They have been replaces by the growing Hispanic population.  Hispanics have a different and much less need for the hair care products that translates to fewer sales coming from the community.  Hispanics are the largest minority in America. The disappearing Afro residence has assimilated into the mainstream population.\n\nHOW TO ADDRESS THIS CONCERN; try to stock products that relate to the Hispanic market.  Hire sales people of that culture.  Place window displays that relate to the market.  This still will not replace the business from the lost Afro customer based on the information in the last paragraph, but it will stabilize sales and lead to other opportunities that you may not be aware of yet.\n\n35 years ago the Afro community had only a few Beauty Supply Stores scattered through out the area.  Today there are locations in most every shopping area large and small within that community.  However, other mainstresm communities in the cities have changed very little in this regard.  Maybe that is where the new opportunities are.  This will mean stocking high end items that relate to the professional market only, (as a segregated section) as well as general retail products.  The draw back is that rent and property costs are higher, but this can be over come due to the higher income bracket of people in these communities.\n\nYou may not agree with the suggestions here, but now you know how and why the market is in transition.\n\nDr. Tony Lloneau\n\n310-283-7118\n\nliquidgoldbondng@aol.com\n\nliquidgoldbonding.com

HOW TO BETTER UNDERSTAND YOUR AFRO AMERICAN CUSTOMERS NEEDS AND WHY

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HOW TO BETTER UNDERSTAND YOUR\n\n AFRO AMERICAN CUSTOMERS NEEDS AND WHY\n\n By Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau\n\n (310) 283-7118    Liquidgoldbondng@aol.com\n\n \n\nIn previous articles I attempted to illustrate how and why the hair and skin care requirements are different for most people of Afro Decent although there are other cultures with dark skin there needs  still differ from Afro Americans due primarily to climatic conditions in their  native countries where the race originated.  Although they no longer live in those regions, pills or were born there for several generations, remedy through heredity the original genes are passed on and create the needs and desires to exist in a completely different and sometimes hostel environment then their genes that are inborn into them may dictate.  The purpose of this article is to instill understanding as to why the need is different and how to service this need with understanding and knowledge.  The importance of this is two fold…….\n

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  1. 1. There are at least 1/3 more Black Cosmetologists than Caucasians in proportion to their numbers.
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  3. 2. Blacks are only about 11% of the total population in this country, yet they consume over 30% of all hair care products and professional hair services rendered in the United States.
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\n \n\nWHY IS A BLACK BABY BORN WITH STRAIGHT OR WAVY HAIR AND A FEW MONTHS LATER IT IS KINKY?\n\n \n\nThe answer to this is simple: the excessive amount of bonds in the Cortex and Medulla is partly the cause of kinky or curly hair, causing the hair to retract like a stretched rubber band when released.  The Cuticle layer  backs up on each other as a result of the excessive amount of bonds in the Cortex and Medulla,  resulting in Afro hair having up to twice as many overlapping cuticle layers as Caucasian straight hair.  This causes the cuticle scales (their called scales because they resemble the overlapping scales of a fish), to stack tightly against each other and flair out. This is the reason for the kinky appearance of Afro hair.  Pressing, curling and flat ironing forces the flared cuticles flat against the hair shaft to create the appearance of being straight. When a Black baby is born, the bonding in the Cortex and Medulla layer of the hair shaft has not yet been formed.  Sometimes it takes up to a year and half for the bonds to become apparent, thereby forming hair’s permanent structure and texture.  You cannot train a baby’s hair to stay baby hair.  Hair reaches full maturity about the same time that the permanent teeth come in (Approximately 7 1/2 years old); this is the earliest that a chemical service can be performed on a child, however the longer you put this off the better.\n\n \n\nWHY MANY BLACK CHILDREN AND ADULTS DO NOT HAVE HAIR ON THE TEMPLE AREA.\n\n \n\nMany people who suffer this malady cannot remember ever having hair on the temple, so it is passed off as being hereditary and/or one of the traits of being Black.  Actually this situation is caused by persons who unknowingly and with good intentions attempt to groom the hair when the person was an infant.  As mentioned in the last segment explaining why a Black baby is born with straight or wavy hair, this type of hair structure may not be comparable to that of the infant’s parents who may have extremely curly or kinky hair.  Realizing this, the mother, big sister, babysitter, etc., will start to smooth the hair from the forehead back by tying it down with rubber bands, barrettes, tight braiding that pulls the hair and roots out of the scalp permanently, or caking it with heavy oils in an attempt to train the hair to stay straight or wavy.  This is a futile practice because it is impossible to train baby hair to stay baby hair.  Once the Cortex and Medulla has matured, causing natural retention in the hair, it then causes the overlapping of the Cuticle scale.  The hair will, for then and evermore, maintain its natural curl or kinky pattern.  Exception: When the hair is changed by such as relaxers and rearrangers.\n\nManipulation of the hair as described above causes a great deal of the papilla (the seed and root of the hair shaft) to become permanently destroyed.  It is destroyed by pulling and crushing due to the tender Papilla, at that young age, being mashed between the scalp and skull due to the pressure applied during this futile training attempt, or is pulled out of the scalp.  What results is permanent baldness in the temple area, high foreheads, thinning hair and bald spots throughout the rest of the scalp that last a lifetime.  None of these conditions are natural or inherent for the most part.  They were caused unintentionally by people who thought they were doing the right thing on behalf of the child.  Also, kinky hair is flat hair that grows from a somewhat flat follicle.  By manipulation of the hair as just described you are rendering the follicle even flatter, resulting in even kinkier hair when it matures than it would have been if simply left alone.  Normal grooming and care is fine but do not try to force it to be what it is not.\n\n \n\nWHAT IS BAD HAIR?\n\n \n\nIt is very irritating to me to hear black people referring to their natural “AFRO” hair as being ‘BAD HAIR’.  People of color have enough put downs to deal with without adding another self-imposed one.\n\nThe only “BAD HAIR” is hair that leaves the head involuntarily regardless of what grade it is.  Actually afro hair is the strongest most impenetrable hair there is. \n\n \n\n \n\nIS AFRO HAIR WEAKER THAN CAUCASIAN STRAIGHT HAIR?\n\nAs Stated In Most Text Books?\n\n \n\nNo! It is only considered to be weaker after it has been damaged by pressing, hot curling, relaxing, tinting, bleaching, back combing etc.  But, when afro hair that is in its natural state is compared to straight natural hair, afro hair is up to three (3) times stronger.  This is why afro hair can be rolled on base with tension without breaking when permanently curling. Can be processed up to three (3) times longer has up to five (5) times the tinsel strength, (the ability to stretch when wet before breaking) and is much more difficult to control and manage.  Furthermore, if a relaxer that was designed for afro hair was applied to Caucasian straight hair; it would destroy the hair in less than 5 minutes.  But on virgin afro hair it would take 15-20 minutes to relax the hair as intended without damage.   If a pressing comb heated to the proper temperature to do its intended purpose on virgin afro hair was applied to Caucasian straight hair at the same temperature, it would burn and destroy the hair.  So you now know what kind of hair is the strongest.\n\nAfro hair is assumed to be weaker because it does not appear to grow as long; this is because of the exceptional curliness of this hair, creating the illusion of being short. Afro hair grows at the same rate as any other hair type but breaks off at the ends as a result of relaxing, harsh combing or brushing and excessive heat i.e. pressing combs and curling irons.  When afro hair is braided or worn in dread locks you can realize the growth being the same as any other types of hair.

MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS (updated)

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MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS\n\nThe Disappearing Black Power Base of Formally African American Owned Manufactures of Afro Oriented Hair Care Products\n

By Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

\n(310) 283-7118\n\nLiquidgoldbondng@aol.com\n\nThere have been several major acquisitions as of late involving black owned firms that are now owned by majority and foreign countries firms.  However this trend is not new, cialis usa in fact it dates back to as early as the 60’s.  Prior to the 60’s, sales the black oriented hair care product business was all but ignored by the general market product companies.  But when market surveys accidentally revealed that black consumer’s purchase cosmetic and related products well beyond their proportionate numbers, (meaning that at that time Afro Americans were only 10% of the total U.S. population, but were consumers of more than 25% of cosmetic products that included for the most part hair care items).  Also, Afro Americans paid more for professional hair care services per visit then others.  For example, the average black patron paid about $30.00 for a full service treatment, meaning shampoo, press & curl, perms, conditioners and set.  The patron’s of other cultures spent about $12.00 for just a shampoo, set and style.  Today the prices are higher, but the pay scale and trend are the same, only now Afro Americans are 12% of the population and consume over 33% of cosmetic products and services. The main factor as to why the Afro Beauty Supply consumer market is so strong is:  Afro women spend up to three (3) times as much money per salon visit then do others.  Most other patrons get shampoos, sets, color and hair cuts per visit.  Afro women generally get a full service treatment such as Relaxer Perms, Curly Perms, Press & Curl, coupled with Conditioning treatments as well as all forms of color services and hair augmentations i.e. Weaves, Braids and Extensions.  Many of these services are not even offered in non Black Salons, plus the Afro patrons return more often than other cultures.\n\nSo armed with this information, the majority owned firms wanted in on this potential profitable market that they had formerly ignored and considered unimportant.  Note: the majority of Korean owned beauty supply outlets are directed at that market for this and other reasons, resulting in the Koreans controlling 80% of professional Afro designated hair care product, sales and distribution sold in beauty supply stores without regard as to who the manufactuer may be.  Also because Afro women are the major consumers of commercial hair that the Koreans have control of, import and distribution for the most part, resulting in their stores being in the areas where the customer base is. It is interesting to note that the Koreans are only 5% of the U.S. population, but control 60% of the nations Beauty Supply sales and distribution.\n\nRevlon was one of the first majority firms to jump into this market in a big way in the early 60’s. They first acquired a black owned firm in Chicago (Deluxol) that manufactured a relaxer line and related products. This product did so well under the original name with Revlon financial backing for advertising and promotions, that Revlon came out with another similar line under their own name of Revlon.  They have done quite well in that endeavor ever sense under several trade names.  Revlon was motivated primarily by how well Johnson Products Company (a black owned product manufacturing company in Chicago) was doing with their Ultra Sheen line of relaxer products.  At that time, Ultra Sheen was the best selling relaxer line.  Revlon’s advertising and marketing and misleading advertising, “That was addressed by the U.S. Fair Trade Commission” claims was aimed towards the Ultra Sheen market.  With that ploy, they were able to infiltrate and dilute Johnson market share by 50%.  The reason that Revlon did not introduce their Afro line under their own name at first, is because they did not want to taint their name and reputation if the endeavor was not successful or accepted.  Revlon later dropped the Deluxol name in favor of promoting their own trademark name.  After that many other majority company’s jumped into that market with greater success then anticipated.  Company’s such as Alberto Culver makers of VO5, developed TCB and later the Motions line.  Clairol, acquired an Afro owned line called Summitt Labs out of Indianapolis, Indiana.  After a successful run, they sold the line to their then Summitt director Clyde Hammonds who was with the company from the start, who is black and runs the company out of Harvey, a suburb of Chicago, Ill.  Clairol decided to get out of the ethnic product business because it was distracting from their main focus of hair color products.  However they learned from that experience how to better serve and market to the Afro consumer.  This was the first time that an original black owned company that was acquired by a majority firm was reclaimed by a black owned company. \n\nIn the mid 60’s, a new look that was a draw back to the original Afro hairstyle called the NATURAL.  This was to allow the hair to grow out naturally then groom and comb or “fork” it out to a neat round appearance and cut to a well rounded shape.  The first company to offer a product that conformed to this style was Magnificent Products in Los Angeles.  Two barbers Dennis Taylor and Wilber Jackson founded the company.  The product and the style it was related to became a nation wide phenomena.  Other companies tried to capitalize on this success, but none over came the pursuit.  Later a majority owned firm J. Strickland of Memphis, Tenn. at that time, the makers of Royal Crown and Dixie Peach products made the Magnificent Products an offer that they could not refuse, and bought the company.  But instead of furthering and enhancing the sales and popularity of the products, they withdrew it from the market and shut it down.  The speculated reason for this was because the Natural look was interfering with the sales of Royal Crown, Dixie Peach and other similar products produced and sold almost exclusively to Afro Americans.  People wearing the Natural did not need or use petrolatum-based products.  Johnson Products picked up the slack with a product called Afro Sheen, that did quite well until the fad was replaced by the so-called Jeri Curl.\n\nIn the early 1980’s Worlds of Curls a black owned company in Compton, Ca. became financially strapped due to diversifying into endeavors outside of their niche market and the declining curl market.  Worlds of Curls had the best selling curl maintenance products for both professional and retail.  The company is now owned by the J. Strickland Company the makers of Royal Crown Products, as eluted to above, concerning Magnificent Products.\n\nJohnson Products of Chicago that was mentioned earlier in this article, was acquired by a majority holding and investment firm a few years ago, and has changed ownership four more times sense then including the Walla Corporation of Germany with U.S. headquarters in New Jersey.  Walla’s major niche market is hair color products (the best selling hair color line in Europe). Later Walla was acquired by Proctor & Gamble, and now Johnson has new owners (more about that later in this article). \n\nSoft Sheen Products of Chicago was the next product line to be acquired by a major majority firm.  L’Oreal of Paris with U.S. headquarters’ in New York.  Soft Sheen manufactured the best selling Afro Curl products, plus the Optimum and Mazoni line.  At the time of the acquisition Soft Sheen was the largest Afro owned hair care firm in the world, with assets well over $85,000.000.00.  This acquisition was the largest one of its kind ever recorded and put L’Oreal in the Afro Hair Care market big time, plus they also own the Dark and Lovely line.  Prior to this, L’Oreal was the largest manufacturer of hair care products to the general market in the world, along with Bristol Myers (who also owned Clairol), that is now owned by Proctor and Gamble.  This acquisition also gave L’Oreal the distinction of owning the largest Afro hair care company in the world.  L’Oreal later attempted to acquire the Johnson Products Co. from the investment company, but was stopped by the Fair trade Commission because it would have given L’Oreal an unfair monopoly in the Afro hair care market.  This opened the door for Walla to purchase Johnson.  Proctor & Gamble who also acquired Clairol from Bristol Myers acquired walla later.\n\nPro Line products of Dallas, Texas were acquired by Alberto Culver (mentioned earlier in this article) in 2005.  Pro Lines niche was strong in the retail market for Afro hair care products.  Alberto-Culver was already strong in the Afro professional market, with TCB and Motions, plus the fact that they were at that time the parent company of Sally’s Beauty Supply Stores.  This acquisition gave them a strong position in the Afro retail market.  In the latter part of 2010, Alberto Culver was purchased by the Unilever Company head quartered in the UK, Pro-line and the other Afro centric products (TCB & Motions) were a part of the deal.  This made Unilever the third largest manufacturer of ethnic related products.\n\nA non-Afro firm in Chicago (JF Labs) now owns Hawaiian Silky, originally home based in Shannon, Miss., owned by Mr. Harry Green.  Mr. Green passed away in mid 2010.  Leisure Curl was also Afro owned and is now also owned by JF Labs.  Namiste’ makers of ORGANIC ROOT STIMULATOR (the most imitated product line on the market today) in Blue Island, Ill. (southwest of Chicago), was purchased by an India owned firm called Dabur towards the end of 2010.  This was the largest such transaction of a Afro owned hair care company in history, (over 100 million dollars) the owner of Namiste’ Mr. Gary Gardner is the son of Edward Gardner the former owner of Soft Sheen Products, prior to this transaction Soft Sheen acquisition by L’Oreal  was the largest such transaction.\n\nWhen Proctor and Gamble acquired Walla, Johnson Products were a part of the deal.  Due to the fact that Johnson (Ultra Sheen & Gentle Treatment) was NOT  the major reason for the acquisition (the Wella line was the main consideration for the acquisition), it made Johnson vulnerable for acquisition by any one interested.  Johnson was  purchased in March of  2009 by a majority owned holding company and  headed by Eric and Renee Brown, a husband and wife team that are the son in law and daughter of the former Afro owner of Pro Line Mr. Comer Cottrel. In mid 2013 Johnson Product Company (JPC) under went a merger with the makers of Dr. Miracle’s (DRM) to become the DRM-JPC BRANDS                                              The company founded by Ernest Jhosua, JM Products was headed by his son Michael after Mr. Jhosua’s death in 2005. In October of 2009 the company went into receivership.  The company had several divisions that include production of the ISOPLUS and other trade name “Wet Goods” products, and an aerosol plant.  The Isoplus line and other wet goods are now owned by the majority owned Murray Products Co. in Detroit, MI.\n\nIt is note worthy that many of the manufactures mentioned in this article are home based in other countries, for example, L’Oreal (France), Wella (Germany), Debar (India) and Unilever (England).  It appears that many of the American based hair care and cosmetic companies are being dominated by foreign interest, especially in products directed to the Afro market.  Three of the five largest manufactures of Afro designated hair care and cosmetics products are foreign owned.\n\nA few of the hair care manufactures that are still Black owned as of this writing are: Luster products of Chicago, Ill. Producers of the Pink Moisturizer, Kizure Iron Works of Gardena, Calif. (just south of Los Angeles). Manufacture of Curling Irons, Pressing Combs, Stove Heaters and several other related items,  Summit Labs in Harvey, Ill. Also a suburb of Chicago, Lloneau Products in Los Angeles, Ca. makers of Liquid Gold Hair Bonding and Lace Front Adhesives, Bronner Bros. Of Atlanta, Ga. with a complete line of hair care products.  Bronner Bros. Also are the publishers of Upscale Magazine and the producers of the most successful multicultural Cosmetology Trade Show in this or any other country.  Dudley Products of Kernersville, N.C. one of the few Afro owned direct sales organization to the professional cosmetology industry in this field.  Dudley also owns a chain of Cosmetology schools in several states.  . Fashion Fair Cosmetics, owned by Johnson Publishing (Ebony & Jet).  Clentex of Chicago, Ill. owned by Mr. Steve Luster the brother of the founder of Luster Products.  Research Labs in Atlanta, Ga. owned by Mr. Cornell McBride with a line called Design Essentials.  Mr. McBride was one of the original owners of M&M Products, now majority owned.  E.F. Young Products of Meridian, MS is now being run by a third generation of a family owned business.  Mixed Chicks in Woodland Hills, Ca.,  Professional Products Unlimited headed by Mr. Cyrus Jackson in Fayetteville, GA., Clear Essence by Bluefield Associates a skin care product line made especially for Afro Centric skin care needs.Taliah Waajid in Atlanta, Ga.\n\nThe preceding is a partial listing of Afro owned firms, but does represent most of the major Afro owned players still in the game.\n\nSo if you were curious as to who’s who in regards to ethnicity in the ownership of major ethnic directed product company’s you now know part of the story.  This story is still unfolding as you read this article.

SCALP DISORDERS THAT ARE MOST NOTABLE ON AFRO CENTRIC CHILDREN

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By: Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

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Scalp burns are cause by hot pressing combs and/or curling irons (THERMO BURNS) coming in contact with the scalp. Other sources of scalp burns are from hair relaxers that was left on the hair to long resulting in the relaxer gravitating to the scalp resulting in A CHEMICAL BURN. Both type burns are different but can be treated with the same medication Neosporin or similar type product.

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OTHER FORMS OF SCALP DISORDERS Mostly On Children Read the rest of this entry »

HOW TO PERMANENTLY AND SAFELY COLOR RELAXED HAIR

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Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau\n\nBy\n\n \n\nThis article is designed to help Cosmetologist better serv their customers in regards to hair color products so that they can better understand their needs and wants with practical answers to their concerns.\n

Generally relaxed hair that has also been tinted appears to be dry and lifeless.  This is due to the fact that relaxed hair should not be tinted in the same manner as virgin hair but usually is.

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To begin with, look if your patron wants both a permanent tint and relaxer service, you should always give the relaxer first and the tint afterward, but not on the same appointment.  If you do it the other way around the relaxer will lift most of the color.  The permanent tint formula consists of two formulas blended together to form the finish application.  They are the tint and the peroxide or developer usually mixed half-and-half.  This formula is fine for virgin hair; however, if you follow this procedure on relaxed hair; the hair will become over processed. Read the rest of this entry »

HOW THE PRESS & CURL STYLE CHANGES THE TEXTURE OF HAIR

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By Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

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Pressed hair is a temporary allusion of straightening.  Because the hair is not straight only the cuticle layer has been temporarily smoothed to give the appearance of being straight.  Under the cuticle the rest of the hair shaft is unchanged and unaffected by the process.  The hair quickly returns to its natural state when wet or after a short duration (10-14 days).

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To really understand and appreciate this procedure, cheap it is necessary to explain what the Press & Curl transformation is. Read the rest of this entry »

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