HOW TO PERMANENTLY AND SAFELY COLOR RELAXED HAIR

General Posts
Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau\n\nBy\n\n \n\nThis article is designed to help Cosmetologist better serv their customers in regards to hair color products so that they can better understand their needs and wants with practical answers to their concerns.\n

Generally relaxed hair that has also been tinted appears to be dry and lifeless.  This is due to the fact that relaxed hair should not be tinted in the same manner as virgin hair but usually is.

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To begin with, look if your patron wants both a permanent tint and relaxer service, you should always give the relaxer first and the tint afterward, but not on the same appointment.  If you do it the other way around the relaxer will lift most of the color.  The permanent tint formula consists of two formulas blended together to form the finish application.  They are the tint and the peroxide or developer usually mixed half-and-half.  This formula is fine for virgin hair; however, if you follow this procedure on relaxed hair; the hair will become over processed.

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The manufactures of hair color, in describing the use of their product, are assuming that the product will be used on virgin hair.  Therefore, they are not taking into consideration the special conditions and requirements of performing this procedure on relaxed hair.

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The purpose of the peroxide or developer is to oxidize and penetrate the Cuticle layer by rendering it to a porous condition (by forming little microscopic holes throughout the Cuticle layer, allowing the tint to enter these holes (Porosity) and adhere to the Cortex).  After hair is relaxed the relaxer has actually removed as much as 30% of the Cuticle layer; the Cuticle structure that remains is left in a porous condition; therefore, if you use the amount of peroxide or developer called for in the manufacture’s instructions, The hair will become over processed.  This is because the peroxide or developer will go beyond the Cuticle and will penetrate the Cortex because there will be no cuticle resistance and will allow the natural oils and moisture in the bonds to escape.

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The correct formula for tinting on processed relaxed hair is as follow:

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Use the same amount of tint as originally called for in the formula but reduce the amount of peroxide or developer by one half.  Replace that one half with distilled, deionized water (this water can easily be found in any supermarket; be sure that it is clearly labeled deionized), or use skim milk that will also condition the hair, or create a color soap cap by using a low pH or neutralizing shampoo.  Add a few drops of LIQUID PROTEIN to this formula.  This will act as a filler-all for the overporous condition; shake well and apply to the hair according to the manufacture’s instructions.  You will find that this diluted formula will allow your color to come up just as fast on this previously relaxed hair as a full strength formula will on virgin straight hair and the hair will not appear to be dry and lifeless a few days later.  It is a good idea to give a LIQUID PROTEIN treatment a few days prior to the color to repair much of the Cuticle deterioration and porosity caused by the relaxer treatment. Peroxide or developers used in permanent color treatments are usually 20 volume.  You can simply use a 5 or 10 volume half and half with the color, in instead of the formulas shown above. This is the same volume used in peroxides for skin cuts. Any one of the four methods shown above will do the job on relaxed color treated hair; however, the skim milk method is the best because it will also serve to condition the hair.  Be sure it is skim milk because whole milk contains fatty cream that can block the porosity of the cuticle.

\nWhen using water in the formulation of hair color mixtures, do not use tap water.  Tap water goes through miles of metal pipes and becomes “Metallic” resulting in the hair picking up green and purple high lights.\n\nNOTE:\n

Peroxide and/or developers actually serves two (2) functions, they are to oxidize the cuticle in order to render it porous so that the color can reach the cortex.  The other purpose is to allow the color to grab to the cortex so that it stays permanently embedded in the cortex.  When using only half as much peroxide as described above, you are only using what is needed to allow the color to grab onto the cortex, because the cuticle that was not desolved by the relaxer is more porous then the peroxide would ever render it, plus about 30% or more of the cuticle is gone.

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Never use any form of bleach on relaxed hair because it will deteriorate already weaken hair from the relaxer, the same holds true for permanently waved hair.  If you want a lighter color on dark hair try using color that is two or three shades lighter than the shade you want.

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The following is additional information in regards to professional hair coloring:

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CAN HAIR COLOR HELP GROW HAIR?

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The reason that people believe that perms, relaxers, and hair COLORS help to grow the hair because in such services  there is a very clear and defined line of demarcation when the new growth appears.  They can now actually see the new natural growth as distinguished from the treated hair.  However if they measure the length of the hair, they will discover that the hair is the same length or shorter then before.  Chemical services such as those mentioned above actually weaken hair, not make it stronger, so hair growth is not one of their advantages.  If they did aid in promoting and stimulating hair growth, then the manufactures would proudly say so in they’re advertising.

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HOW TO HEAT PROCESS COLOR, BLEACH, CONDITIONERS, PERMANENT CURL OR ANY OTHER PROCEDURE THAT REQUIRES EXTERNAL HEAT WITHOUT THE USE OF DRYERS, HEAT CAPS AND HEATING LAMPS!

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The above device produces the same amount of heat as the human body does…by harnessing this natural heat source, you will save the cost of 1500 watts of electricity.  After applying the conditioner, place a plastic cap on the head, place a slightly damp towel in a microwave oven for about 30 seconds, wrap the towel around the head, take another towel and wrap it around the first towel.  This will trap and maintain the natural body heat that is close to the same temperature as the heat that comes from the dryer.  This method will be just as effective as the dryer and NO high electricity cost.

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WHY IS GRAY HAIR RESISTANT

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My theory is that color pigmentation in the Cortex layer serves to protect the inner structure.  (The Medulla) from damage that can occur from ultra violet rays of the sun.  When the hair turns gray, this pigmentation is no longer present to combat this condition; therefore, the Cuticle acts as an antibody and becomes thicker, the hair  becomes more resistant and courser.

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WHY DOES GRAY HAIR SOME TIMES

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TURN YELLOW OR GREEN?

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The yellow is because the hair absorbs the color that manufactures add to their shampoos, conditioners and other home care products…  The green is the results of trying to neutralize the yellow with a blue rinse.  (Yellow and blue begets Green)  To correct this, obtain a PH balance or neutralizing shampoo.  Next get a purple or lavender color such as jazzing or cellophane.  Add the color to the shampoo until it turns a deep color.  Shampoo two (2) soaping, rinse, dry and style.  This should over come the yellow or green without depositing the color used in the shampoo.

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WHY DOES VIRGIN AFRO HAIR TAKE LONGER

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TO PROCESS PERMANENT COLOR?

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Permanent hair color on Afro hair is performed some what differently then on most other cultures.  The reasons being are that Afro hair has twice as many over lapping cuticles than most straight hair.  This is because when natural Afro hair draws up into a tight curl or kink, the cuticle layers back up into the cuticle in back resulting in this type hair having twice as many over lapping cuticles in any given area of the hair shaft.

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When permanent color formulation is applied to natural Afro hair, the color takes longer to penetrate.  The directions for applying color on the box is to process for about 45 minutes.  However on natural virgin Afro hair it has to process for one hour or more due to twice as many cuticle layers to penetrate. Relaxed hair will process in about 25 or 30 minutes due to little or no cuticle resistance, because the relaxer product and procedure will remove up to 1/3 of the cuticles, the remaining cuticles will be left in a porous state.

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Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

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liquidgoldbondng@aol.com

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(310) 283-7118

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