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1. For entertainment

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2. For information

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As someone who earns his livelihood from the Cosmetology Industry I found the Documentary to be very entertaining for the most part but also misleading in some areas.  Chris Rock’s commentary was in keeping with his comedic reputation; there were some places that were out of context.

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The movie zeroed in on Indian hair however Indian Hair is only about 10% of the market for human hair.  The majority of hair comes from Asian countries, find however Indian Hair is the most sought after because of the way it is harvested.  Most hair on the market is simply cut from the head leaving about two inches or more on the head.  Indian Hair as a part of a religious ceremony is shaved off from the scalp. The longer the hair is, the weaker it is due to combing, brushing, shampooing and other manipulations that hair is subjected to.  When hair is shaved from the scalp, this is stronger hair because hair is stronger at its base.  Also Indian Hair is not subjected to chemical processing and silicone coatings to make it appear to be of a different texture such as Asian YAKY hair that is chemically treated and flat ironed to resemble African American Hair that has been relaxed.  Most Indian hair comes with sub titles such as Rimi, Cuticle, and Virgin, all referring to natural untreated hair.  Also the meatless diet and the fact that spiritual Indian people (that the hair comes from) do not smoke or consume alcohol and drugs, also the hair is carefully scrutinized to insure that all strands are facing the same way (from scalp to ends) to avoid tangling and matting contributing to a higher quality of hair.  Most of the hair is sent to China for world distribution then to the neighboring country of Korea where it is packaged and shipped to the USA.

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In the movie, Chris Rock made a comical segment about a market for natural African American hair.  Of course there is no market for natural African American hair.  In reality, Yaky hair as mentioned above is referred to as African American hair for the reasons stated.

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In the demonstration of sodium hydroxide dissolving a soda pop can is misleading because the can was put in A container of 80% Sodium Hydroxide but in reality relaxer only contains 1 ½ to 2% of the chemical.  Also the can was in the solution for several hours before the can was dissolved, a relaxer is only left in the hair for a maximum of 20 minutes.  This renders it safe to use on human hair when used as directed.  The movie led us to believe that DUDLEY (the black owned firm in Kernersville, N.C. featured in the movie) and other manufacturers are producing products that are unsafe to be used on human beings.

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In the segment on the use of relaxers on children, one person interviewed did state that a young child’s hair is not matured enough to receive a chemical service.  What was left out and very important was at what age is it safe to do such a service to a child?  We all know that when a black baby is born to parents with average Afro centric hair, but the babies’ hair is straight or wavy, as the child gets older the hair changes to later become what their heritage dictates.  When the child’s permanent teeth come in about the age of 7 or 8 that is when the hair has gained its maturity.  Therefore that is the earliest when it is safe to give a chemical service of any kind including a Permanent Curl, or Permanent Color.  However the longer this is postponed the better because after the first relaxer treatment the new growth will grow out in most cases curly or kinkier then before.  This is because when the scalp starts to burn this is a signal that the chemical has seeped down the follicle (the opening in the scalp that the hair grows out of) to the seed of the hair (papilla) changing the growth direction to a tighter curve resulting in kinkier new growth.  Pressing combs, Curling irons and Flat irons are safe to use on young children as long as the devises are not to hot.

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An important related fact that was not elaborated in the film with the exception on a short mention by Sam Ennon of BOBSA (Black Owned Beauty Supply Association) was the Korean influence in the Hair business.  The Bronner Bros. hair show is well represented by the Korean retailers and distributors of hair.  In fact the Koreans control 90% of the hair that is imported to this country including Indian.  African American woman are 85% of the consumers of all hair used commercially including animal and synthetic.  This is why most (if not all) of Korean stores are in the black community because that is where the market is for commercial hair.

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The main factor as to why the Afro beauty supply consumer market is so strong is: Afro women spend up to three (3) times as much money per salon visit then do others.  Most other patrons get shampoos, sets and cuts per visit.  Afro women generally get full service treatment such as Relaxer Perms, Curly Perms, Press & Curl, coupled with Conditioning treatments as well as all forms of color services and hair augmentations i.e. Weaves, Braids and Extensions.  Many of these services are not even offered in non Black Salons, “plus the Afro patrons return more often than other cultures”.

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Black America is only 12% of the total population, but are consumers of over 33% of all hair care products and professional services.  This is a major reason that many of the former Black owned hair care manufactures are now owned by non-black corporations, this is a market that they once ignored but now aggressively seek after.

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The Bronner Bros. show is the best place in the world to gain information and educational insight as to what is the latest trends and use of hair and products as they relate to the Ethnic market place.  The show is presented in February and August each year in Atlanta.  Its director Bernard Bronner and show manager Janet Wallace professionally orchestrates the show.  Other professional trade shows of interest in this regard are the Spectrum International Beauty Expo in March each year  in Los Angeles (310) 680-7367, and the AHBAI (Proud Lady) in April or May in Chicago, Ill.  (708) 633-6328.

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In conclusion, the movie gave a good opening attention to the hair situation as it relates to the black community; however it opened the doors to a much larger picture in this regard that has yet to be revealed.  Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau has skillfully documented that revelation in his books and lectures on the subject.

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Bio on Dr. Lloneau:

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Dr. Lloneau holds a PHD through the National Beauty Culture League (N.B.C.L.) and sanctioned by Howard University.  Dr. Lloneau’s area of expertise is Trichology as it relates to the field of Ethnic Cosmetology.  His classes on the subject are not only informative, but also entertaining that is mindful of the motivational lectures by Bill Cosby and Dick Gregory.  Dr. Lloneau’s books on that topic “Facts and Theory on Ethnic Cosmetology” and “What the Text Books, State Boards & Beauty Schools Left Out and ignored”.  The essence of the books and lectures are to inform the Professional Cosmetologist and Students of necessary information about ethnic hair and how the chemicals used in Cosmetology work and why.  Much of this information has never been explored before now.

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The shameful truth is that when Ethnic Students finish Cosmetology School with honors knowing only what is required by the State Boards (and no more), they are not equipped with enough knowledge to perform many of the services required by their Ethnic clientele.