HOW TO PROMOTE AND STIMULATE NATURAL HAIR GROWTH

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HOW TO PROMOTE AND STIMULATE NATURAL
HAIR GROWTH

It has not been proven that any product applied externally to the hair or scalp can promote, stimulate, or accelerate natural hair growth.  Most people who complain of little or no hair growth are blaming it on the wrong reason.  They think the problem is lack of natural growth form the scalp, when in reality; the problem is the hair is breaking off from the ends for a variety of reasons.  If hair growth stops, then baldness begins, and yet you have people complaining their hair has not grown at all over a period of years.  If the person has hair, then it is growing.  Once hair stops growing, it is eliminated by way of attrition.  In other words, as every hair shaft dies out due to the normal life span of the hair shaft (5 to 7 years), then it will not be replaced by another.  Therefore, permanent baldness becomes apparent.

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FACTS CONCERNING RELAXERS ON CHILDREN

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FACTS CONCERNING RELAXERS ON CHILDREN

In the movie GOOD HAIR the question concerning using relaxers on Children was addressed but not answered.  This is a very important concern because a young child’s hair can be permanently altered in a negative way.
In order to fully understand the reason for this, the following should help…..

WHY IS A BLACK BABY BORN WITH STRAIGHT OR WAVY
HAIR AND A FEW MONTHS LATER IT IS KINKY?

The answer to this is simple: the excessive amount of bonds in the Cortex and Medulla (more so then most other cultures) is partly the cause of kinky or curly hair, causing the hair to retract like a stretched rubber band when released.  The Cuticle layer backs up on each other as a result of the excessive amount of bonds in the Cortex and Medulla, resulting in Afro hair having up to twice as many overlapping cuticle layers than Caucasian straight hair.  This causes the cuticle scales (they are called scales because they resemble the overlapping scales of a fish), to stack tightly against each other and flair out.  This is the reason for the kinky appearance of Afro hair.  Pressing, curling and flat ironing forces the flared cuticles flat against the hair shaft to create the appearance of being straight.  When a Black baby is born, the bonding in the Cortex and Medulla layer of the hair shaft has not yet been formed.  Sometimes it takes up to a year and a half for the bonds to become apparent, thereby forming hair’s permanent structure and texture.  You cannot train a baby’s hair to stay baby hair.

WHAT IS A SAFE AGE TO RELAX A CHILD’S HAIR?

Usually after the age of seven (7), this is because a child hair does not mature until about that age, or at about the same time that there permanent teeth come in.  At that time the hair will have developed its full cuticle, cortex and medulla structure.  When an afro baby is born, the hair is usually very soft and slightly wavy.  This is because the bonds and other internal structures of the hair have not yet developed.  Over a period of seven years the hairs development is complete and strong enough to with stand the chemical change.  However, the longer you postpone relaxing a child’s hair, the better for the hair and the child.

WHAT TO CONSIDER PRIOR TO DOING A FIRST TIME
RELAXER ON NATURALLY WAVY OR SLIGHTLY CURLY
HAIR.

This type of hair that is not really “kinky” when relaxed with sodium or “no lye” relaxer will over come the natural wave or curl however, the new growth will many times grow out curlier than it was before it was relaxed.  When the scalp starts to burn from the relaxer, this is an indication that the relaxer has penetrated the scalp, and is seeping down the Follicle and to the Papilla.  The Papilla reacts to this by drawing up into a tighter curve in an effort to resist this foreign matter.  This new tighter curve remains permanent, resulting in the new growth hair being curlier then it was previously.

THE PAPILLA

This is at the base or bottom of the hair shaft and serves as the seed and root of the hair.  It is located deep in the scalp and serves to supply nutrients that it gains from blood flow derived from the Papilla roots that dip into the blood stream.  Due to heredity, the papilla has a shape that is straight or curvy; a straight papilla will produce straight hair.  A curved papilla will produce wavy or curly hair.  The tighter the curve, the curlier the hair.

Relaxers that are designed for use on children are No Lye type instead of Sodium.  The REASON IS BECAUSE THE No Lye relaxers are milder then the Sodium and do not penetrate as deep into the hair, however they do have a tendency to revert a little requiring new growth (retouch) sooner.  Most professional Cosmetologist do not use No Lye relaxers for this reason.

WHY MANY BLACK CHILDREN AND ADULTS DO NOT HAVE
HAIR ON THE TEMPLE AREA.

Many people who suffer this malady cannot remember ever having hair on the temple, so it is passed off as being hereditary and/or one of the traits of being Black.  Actually this situation is cause by persons who unknowingly and with good intentions attempt to train the hair when the person was an infant.  As mentioned in the last segment explaining why a Black baby is born with straight or wavy hair, this type of hair structure may not be comparable to that of the infant’s parents who may have extremely curly or kinky hair.  Realizing this, the mother, big sister, babysitter, etc., will start to smooth the hair from the forehead back by tying it down with rubber bands, barrettes, tight braiding that pulls the hair and roots out of the scalp permanently, or caking it with heavy oils in an attempt to train the hair to stay straight or wavy.  This is a futile practice because it is impossible to train baby hair to stay baby hair.  Once the Cortex and Medulla has matured, causing natural retention in the hair, it then causes the overlapping of the Cuticle scales.  The hair will, for then and evermore, maintain its natural curl or kinky pattern.  Exception:  When the hair is changed by such as relaxers and rearrangers.

Manipulation of the hair as described above causes a great deal of the papilla (the seed and root of the hair shaft) to become permanently destroyed.  It is destroyed by pulling and crushing due to the tender Papilla, at the young age, being mashed between the scalp and skull due to the pressure applied during this futile training attempt, or is pulled out of the scalp.  What results is permanent baldness in the temple area, high foreheads, thinning hair and bald spots throughout the rest of the scalp that last a lifetime (Tension Alopecia).  None of these conditions are natural or inherent for the most part.  They were caused unintentionally by people who thought they were doing the right thing on behalf of the child.  Also, kinky hair is flat hair that grows from a somewhat flat follicle.  By manipulation of the hair as just described you are rendering the follicle even flatter, resulting in even kinkier hair when it matures then it would have been if simply left alone.  Normal grooming and care is fine but do not try to force it to be what it is not.

Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau
liquidgoldbondng@aol.com
Ph: 310-283-7118

WHY THE TERM “RETOUCH” SHOULD BE STRICKEN FROM COSMETOLOGY AND HOW IT IS MISUSED, MISLEADING AND COSTLY.

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WHY THE TERM “RETOUCH” SHOULD BE STRICKEN FROM COSMETOLOGY AND HOW IT IS MISUSED, MISLEADING AND COSTLY.

By: Dr. Anthony Lloneau

The term “retouch” actually means to redo that which was not done correctly in the first place.  In legal terms, no price should be associated with this service.  In other words, when you do a service that you advertise as retouch, you are advertising a service that your patron does not have to pay you for.  Morally he/she may be responsible to pay you, but legally he/she is not; the spirit of the law may dictate that he/she has to pay you for this service, but the letter of the law does not.

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IS THERE A DOUBLE STANDARD WITHIN THE PROFESSIONAL COSMETOLOGY TRAINING?

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IS THERE A DOUBLE STANDARD WITHIN THE
PROFESSIONAL COSMETOLOGY TRAINING?

By Edward Tony Lloneau

The answer is a resounding YES?  Only it is subliminal and hidden in such a way that those affected by it do not recognize it.  In fact, it is so disguised that we accept it as being the correct statuesque because it is prominently presented in books that are considered to be correct and accurate.  The culprits here are the TEXT BOOKS OF COSMETOLOGY use by the schools and unwittingly sanctioned by the State Boards of cosmetology, and that the state exams are based on. Read the rest of this entry »

CIVIL RIGHTS VS. EQUAL RIGHTS IN ETHNIC COSMETOLOGY

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CIVIL RIGHTS VS. EQUAL RIGHTS
IN ETHNIC COSMETOLOGY

By Dr. Edward Anthony Lloneau

For over thirty-five years, I have been touring the country conducting lectures entitled What The Text Book Left Out Or Ignored.  The classes are designed to elevate the cosmetologist and students understanding by identifying and correcting many of the inaccuracies that are taught in the cosmetology text books and sanctioned by the State Boards that has an indirect impact on the ethnic professional in this regard, especially in the areas of Chemistry, Hair Relaxing, Cold Waving, Press & Curl and hair restructure.  Although it may be quite unintentional, most cosmetology text books serve to reinforce and confirm much of the misinformation that is taught and as such, do not aid in correcting the confusion that most (if not all) ethnic professionals must deal with.


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THE HISTORY AND FUTURE OF THE PRESS & CURL MARKET

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THE HISTORY AND FUTURE
OF THE
PRESS & CURL MARKET
By
Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

This is a large but mostly ignored market due primarily to the manufacturers and the professional Cosmetology industry.  The manufacturers, because they have not come up with any new innovative and practical methods or products directed in that area.  The Cosmetologist, because they do not feature, promote and advertise this service to the same degree as they do other services they perform.  This is because they do not have any posters or other promotional material to use to promote this service.  The Cosmetologist depends on the manufacturers to supply such items, but because this market is all but ignored by the manufacturers, there are no promotional materials available for this purpose.

It is not quite clear where and when the hair pressing procedure began, but it actually began in Africa long before slavery in America.  For thousands of years Africans knew no other skin color or hair type other than their own.  Their hair enhancing tools was the specially fashioned comb (now known as the Afro comb).  They were designed to work on tight wooly hair.  They were constructed of carved wood or animal bones into the shape of a make shift comb.  Many hairstyles and designs denoted families and even whole tribes. Read the rest of this entry »

THE ADVANTAGES OF A STOVE HEATED CURLING IRON OVER A ELECTRICALLY HEATED IRON

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By

Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

The electric curling iron is INDOTHERMIC THE STOVE HEATED IRON IS EXOTHERMIC MEANING THAT ONE IS HEATED FROM THE INSIDE OUT, THE OTHER IS HEATED FROM THE OUTSIDE IN.  The electric iron has a heating element located on the inside of the curling pin handle and the outer surface is INDIRECTLY heated.  The stove heated iron is heated by being place in a stove (or oven) designed for this purpose.  This is DIRECT heat.  Indirect heat means that the surface of the iron did not come into contact with its heating source.  Direct heat means that the surface that comes into direct contact with the hair also came into direct contact with its heating source. Read the rest of this entry »

HISTORY OF AFRO NATURAL AND MULTICULTURAL HAIR

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HISTORY OF AFRO NATURAL AND

MULTICULTURAL HAIR

By: Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

The natural Afro hair style is not new, but is a recycled phenomenon dating back to the time of slavery and continuing to the present day, only in different ways depending on the trends of various times in the history of Afro hair development.

In today’s world the Natural Afro look is primarily concerned with hair belonging to mixed race Afro females (although men are included to a much lesser degree). Read the rest of this entry »

HOW AND WHY KOREAN OWNED BEAUTY SUPPLY STORES DOMINATE IN THE AFRO COMMUNITY

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By Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

From the late 60’s, 70’s, 80’s and on into the 2000’s and beyond there has been a drastic change in how and where professional Afro designated hair care products are distributed.  In the early 70’s it was assumed by the ethnic owned manufactures and distributors that the main changing impact in this market came from the non afro manufactures (majority)  sector, who started manufacturing more products aimed at the ethnic market and purchasing formerly black owned hair care manufacturing companies.  Back in the late 60’s and 70’s several majority owned cosmetic manufacturing firms took a serious look at the ethnic professional hair care market.  There research surprisingly revealed that although blacks were only 11% of the American population, but were responsible for over 30% of cosmetic sales and professional services.  This sudden interest in this market so influenced the sales that it put a large dent into the black manufactures sales and market share.  To that end the Afro American owned manufactures of hair care and cosmetics products formed the American Health and Beauty Aids Institute.  The main function of AHABAI was to draw attention to the Afro consumer to know and recognize what products are manufactured by Afro owned firms in hopes that the Afro consumer would show preference and loyalty to their brands over the majority owned brands.  However while both black and majority  manufactures were working on how to preserve and increase their market share, an unexpected and unanticipated competitor came on the scene unnoticed and undetected until they were already here and in control of a large segment of the market.  ENTER THE KOREANS.  The Koreans started coming to this country in large numbers due to the political unrest in their country.  They pooled their finances (partly from funds provided by the U.S. for political refugee relocation) and through net working among them selves slowly took charge and control of several industries and trades.  Chiefs among these are Fingernail, Wig, Commercial Hair, and the Beauty Supply Ethnic Distribution Businesses. Read the rest of this entry »

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A CURLING IRON AND A MARCEL IRON?

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WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A CURLING IRON AND A MARCEL IRON?

By: Dr. Edward Tony Lloneau

A Curling iron is manipulated by controlling the SHELL that comes in contact with the rod and the thumb.  A Marcel iron, named after its French inventor, has two revolving handles of equal length.  One to control the shell and one to control the rod.  The space between each handle is sufficient to allow a finger to fit, in order to control the movement of the iron.

The Marcel iron is considered to be much more professional than the Curling iron, because when working with a Curling iron, the area of the hair shaft that comes in contact with the shell and pin (in the closed position will stay in constant contact with the hair until released by the thumb.  This is because the shell is held in a permanently close position by a spring, which is released by the thumb’s pressure.  The only way this pressure can be released during the curling procedure is when the thumb controller comes back around into position to be released. Read the rest of this entry »

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